This story, a first person account written by an alumna of the Anthropology Department, highlights the deep friendships formed in the College of Arts & Sciences that, in many instances, transcend location and time.
By Barbara Rylko-Bauer (’80 M.A., ’85 Ph.D.)
The road north of N’djamena to the Kanem is pot-holed pavement for an hour, and then turns to tracks across the sand. We passed a few convoys of French military trucks, full of soldiers with faces turbaned against the flying sand . . . Three hours of heat and lurching til we reached Massakory, an old French colonial outpost and market town. The local dive was full of Arabs in turbans and wailing music but they did not seem at all surprised to see two Nazaras sit down to eat.
This is home for the next month. The wadis are . . . palmy, shady, and patchy green in the midst of the desert, but they aren’t paradise. The stagnant water stinks, salt encrusts the earth, the dirt looks like sand. The [farming] parcels are almost pathetic, 10 by 20 meters of scraggly tomatoes, manioc, onions. The chadoufs are everywhere, with people hauling up buckets of water, pouring it down an earthen channel to let it soak into the ground. Women bend over in the sun, chopping out a space to plant grain. Kids chase the burros away from the crops, loading them up with firewood and marching them home. Everything is hot, dusty, painful; the peoples’ feet and hands are large and calloused at the end of long thin limbs. Is it possible that people survive like this? Looking at the fierce desert frightens me; how can they live here? It is my turn to come to understand their knowledge.
I realize now that my 1st 3 months here were a shock—culture shock and to my health—and now that I’m used to the scene I feel better. I also boil and filter my water, or I get sick. The desert and heat and isolation and Arabs with their daggers no longer make me feel on edge; familiarity is a great advantage.
Chad has a hold on me now: my French is good and I can understand most of the Arabic I hear though my speaking is limited. I have a great time holding fractured conversations; the Chadians I work with crack up and say they have to be careful what they say about the honkies now, and the peasants laugh in delight. . . I really enjoy it and regret that I don’t have the time to study it formally. . . Plus there’s so many things here that fascinate me, that I’ll regret the day I leave.
The women here are incredible. They have such endurance; their work is like slave labor. They have such beautiful faces—rings in their noses, huge earrings, amulets/jewelry. In the south, some still wear big lip-plugs. . . I am interviewing the women about agricultural work and food use/preparation. I can tell you—it’s backbreaking—in addition to domestic chores (day-long searches for firewood on foot, 2 x/week, pounding grain, hauling water) and I have pictures of women in the fields, hoeing.
They brew tea—green with TONS of sugar, thick like syrup, and pass it around in small tumblers. They send me home with piles of yams, a squawking chicken, some eggs. . . I cannot refuse their hospitality, but it is hard to be gracious when I know that these people are eating only 2 times/day . . . living on ground sorghum mixed with powdered milk and water and unripe dates and jujubes, a wild fruit that is mostly pit. And after taking their time and food, I have to tell them that this is just a study; I cannot promise them anything. I find it hard to do, although they never ask for anything but always are glad to say hello and talk.
[They] want to know what the farmers think of the project, where they expect to be in 5 years (!), what their aspirations in life are—all those American, unanswerable-except-in-hypothetical-terms questions that, at this point in my fieldwork, I find so trying and useless to ask. How ridiculous, to ask a struggling subsistence farmer where he ‘sees himself’ 5 yrs. hence. When I pull myself together and pose the question, they look at me like I’m a naïve imbecile and answer, ‘Right here, struggling along.’. . . This development game is so frustrating.
Barbara Rylko-Bauer (M.A. 1980, Ph.D. 1985) is a medical anthropologist, adjunct Associate Professor at Michigan State University and author of "A Polish Doctor in the Nazi Camps" and co-editor of "Global Health in Times of Violence." She also serves on the Society for Applied Anthropology Oral History Project, whose collection is located at the Louie B. Nunn Center for Oral History at the UK Libraries.
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